Exfoliation is such an important step in a skincare routine. Since I discovered chemical exfoliants, I can no longer live without it: it supports and enhances my glow so much! But what are chemical and physical exfoliants, and which method should you use as part of your personal skincare routine?
What is exfoliation, and why do we need it? Your top skin layer (stratum corneum) consists of dead skin cells and is our skin's main protective layer. New cells are made continuously in the deeper skin layers, which eventually move 'up' to later become the top layer. The cells on the top are constantly shedding. However, this shedding isn't always happening regularly, and sometimes this process moves slower than it should. In that case, it can quickly happen that those cells stick onto each other, and together end up forming a thick top layer made out of stapled dead skin cells. The staple can lead to uneven, dull, scaly, flaky skin. It can even clog your pores, which can result in sebum accumulation: the combination of bacteria and sebum can eventually lead to the development of pimples, which we obviously should try to avoid at all times. Exfoliation can help with this and is an excellent way of getting a fresher looking and radiant skin.
There are two main types of exfoliation: physical and chemical exfoliation. Let me explain!
Physical exfoliant Physical exfoliants (also called 'scrub' in the Dutch language) are grainy products or tools that mechanically remove the uppermost layer of dead skin cells by scrubbing the skin. The harshness or effectiveness depends on the type of exfoliation that is used: think of how large, hard, or smooth the exfoliation particles are, and on how you move them over the surface of your skin. Do you press hard or soft, and how long are you rubbing it in for?
In my own skincare routine, I never use physical exfoliants on my face because it is easy to damage the skin layer by pressing too hard or rubbing it too long. You then irritate the skin instead of nourishing it. I do love to pamper my body's skin with a body scrub from time to time. In that case, I do use an exfoliant of this type.
Chemical exfoliant My personal favourites for facial skincare are chemical exfoliants. The most common and easily accessible ones are enzymes and the hydroxy acids AHA's and BHA's:
Enzymes: examples are papain and bromelain (both from fruits)
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA's): include ingredients like glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, and mandelic acid. (Most scientific studies are based on the effect of glycolic acid.)
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA's): salicylic acid. (This is the only one commonly used in skincare.)
Enzymes Enzymes like papain and bromelain are proteins that help break down keratin protein in the uppermost layer of the skin to gently break up dead skin cells. This leads to smoother, healthier looking skin, and it also helps to fight pigmentation and breakouts. They are much more gentle than AHA's and BHA's which make them ideal for sensitive skin and for people who suffer from rosacea. La Crème Cleanser contains enzymes and can be used on a daily basis.
AHA'S & BHA's Both of these acids can be obtained from fruit acids. They reduce the connection (cellular glue or desmosomes) between the top layer consisting of dead skin cells and the newest layer below: the new top layer! The use of chemical exfoliants therefore allows to let go of the old top layer with more ease, and for fresh and more radiant skin to become visible. Chemical exfoliants are known to be gentler because they are less prone to error: it's unlikely to misuse them if you follow the products' guidelines, contrary to the use of physical exfoliants.
So... what is my final verdict of physical exfoliant vs chemical exfoliant? As is probably quite clear from the story above, I recommend chemical exfoliants when using it for facial skincare. Please don’t get me wrong though: there are definitely some outstanding physical exfoliant products available. But it depends entirely on the formula if it is suitable for you and your unique skin. If you do decide to use physical exfoliants, make sure it is a very gentle one and be cautious not to damage the skin during application and treatment: don't ever rub it too hard and too long! And as in every case: always pay attention to what your skin is telling you. Your skin knows best!